| At the
end of the seventh day, the chariot is then taken down a steep
alleyway to the banks of the Hanumante River where an enormous
25-meter pole is raised. The next day again there is a tug-of-war
in the feeling of the pole to signify the beginning of the New
Year.
In the nearby town of
Thimi, the Balkumari Jatra takes place, during which the people
of Thimi honor the goddess Balkumari, one of Bhairab’s consorts.
All through the day devotees gather outside the Balkumari temple
and in the evening hundreds of oil lamps are lit. The following
day the townsmen parade 32 different dieted in palanquins around
the temple where saffron and vermilion powders are tossed towards
them. It is a colorful scene, a sea of humanity bathed in sacred
colors. The festival reaches its climax when the palanquin bearing
Ganesh, brought from the village of Nade, makes a dash to return
home and gets chased by all the other palanquins. Should they
manage to catch Ganesh, the festival gets prolonged a little longer
but eventually Ganesh does return to Nade after which the procession
moves on to the Taleju Temple.
Following this event,
sacrifices are made to the Balkumari in the neighboring village
of Bode where there are only seven deities borne on palanquins.
In Bode takes place an event which might seem bizarre to outsiders.
A volunteer in a spiritual trance gets his tongue pierced with
an iron spike. Good fortune to the village and to the volunteer
will follow should he succeed in spending the whole day thus spiked.
RATO MACCHENDRA
NATH RATH
This is the longest as
well as the most important festival of Patan. It begins with several
days of ceremonies and the fabrication of a wooden-wheeled chariot
at Pulchowk, near the Ashoka Stupa. The chariot bears the shrine
of the Rato (Red) Macchendranath (the Tantric expression of Lokeshwar)
and carries a very tall spire fabricated from bamboo poles tied
together from four ends of the chariot. This unwieldy spire is
around 10 meters tall and on account of which, the chariot balances
precariously. It is said that calamity is certain to strike the
land in the event of the chariot overturning or breaking down
during the course of this festival (Quite often, the chariot does
collapse and break down.)
Following the construction,
the chariot is towed through the streets of Patan by throngs of
devotees every day. Each day, it is put to rest in one of the
many venerated spots in the city. This goes on for a month until
it comes to rest on the big field outside zoo and end with the
Bhoto Jatra, another major festival, during which the jewel-studded
bhoto (vest) of Machhendranath is displayed to the public.
BUDDHA JAYANTI
The spring full moon day
when the Buddha was born is celebrated as Buddha Jayanti or Swanya
Punhi. The day is thrice blessed since it commemorates the three
important events in the Buddha's life: his birth, the day he attained
enlighyenment, and the day he passed into Nirvana.
In Kathmandu, celebrations
marking Buddha Jauanti are concentrated around the stupa of Swayambhunath,
the most sacred among all Buddhist monuments in Nepal. Devotees
gather from early morning to worship and walk around the shrine
in ritual circumambularion. Offerings of butter lamps, rice, coins
and flower, and prayer ceremonies go on throughout the day. Religious
scroll paintings (Paubha) and images of the Buddha are put on
display.
The Buddha Jayanti celebrations
are equally fascinating at Boudhanath. An image of the Buddha
is mounted on an elephant at the head of a procession that circles
the stupa and then proceeds to another stupa and then proceeds
to another stupa at Chabahil. Large symbolic lotus petals are
painted on the stupa with yellow dye of saffron. Prayer flags
flutter in the air, and as night falls, the stupa and the monasteries
are illuminated with the light thousands of butter lamps.
MATA TIRTHA-MOTHER’S
DAY
The Mata Tirtha festival
seeks to highlight two unique aspects of Nepalese culture. One
that of the worship of the mother as representing the Divine female
energy, a culture in itself, and the other of holding one’s
parents, elders and ancestors in high esteem.
On this day, men and women
offer ritual food, sweetmeats and other gifts to their mothers.
It is common to see men, women and children dressed in their finery
carrying gifts of food and going to meet their mother to bow and
touch her feet as a mark of veneration. The mother in return,
touches the forehead of her offspring as a gesture of blessing.
For those mothers have
passed away, it is their sacred duty to visit the Mata Tirtha
Ponds, a sacred pilgrimage spot about 8 km southwest of Kathmandu,
just off the Thankot road. The rituals there are usually associated
with a holy bath of one of the two adjacent ponds, followed by
a Shraddha (annual rites performed in honor of the dead.)
NAAG PANCHAMI
In Hinduism, Naag (the
divine serpent) is glorified as the provider of rain. Naag is
worshipped to provide a good harvest during the monsoon season,
and Naag Panchami, the fifth day of the bright lunar fortnight,
is set aside for worshipping serpents. Devotees on this day paste
pictures of Naag over their doorways with cow-dung. As part of
the rituals to propitiate the divine serpents, milk, their favorite
drink is offered to the pictures. Failure to appease them may
invite droughts and disaster in the days ahead.
Devotees also throng Taudaha,
a pond six kilometers to the south of Kathmandu. There they worship
Karkotak Naag, the serpent-king. Karkotak moved to this dwelling
when Manjushree drained the lake that used to cover the Valley.
Pilgrims also visit the rural Newar Township of Dhapakhyo in Lalitpur,
where at Ngadha, they pay homage to the serpent-gods.
JANAI PURNIMA,
RISHI TARPANI OR GUNHI PUNHI
On this day, Brahmins
and Chettris have their annual ritual of changing their sacred
thread called the Janai. Rishi Tarpani is the day to pay ablution
to Rishis, as the hermits practicing self-denial are known. The
full moon day thus sees hordes of Hindu priests with their clean-shaven
heads taking dips in the holy water to purify their bodies before
they get on with their business of offering sacred yellow threads
to their clients. The native Newars of the Kathmandu Valley call
this festival Gunhi Punhi, Kwati, soup of nine different sprouted
beans, is prepared in Newar households as the specials dish on
the day’s menu.
In the Kathmandu Valley,
the biggest celebration takes place at the Kumbeswar Temple in
Patan. A richly decorated lingam, the phallic symbol of Lord Shiva,
is placed on a raised platform in the middle of the historic Kumbheswar
Pond for devotees to worship. Another ceremony that takes place
here is called Byanja Nakegu in which rice is offered to frogs.
Since the water in the pond is believed to come from Gosainkunda,
via an underground channel, a bath in Kumbhewar is considered
as meritorious as one in Gosainkunda . However, the more devout
Hindus trek to the sacred lake at an altitude of 4,298 meters
and take a dip in the freezing of coins and coconuts too Shiva
and Parvati.
GAI JATRA
Literally meaning Cow
Festival, this is a jovial festival that lasts for eight days.
Dancing, singing, pantomime anything that causes mirth and laughter
is part of the festival’s highlights. On the first day of
the festival, people whose family members have died during the
year parade a decorated cow around the city together their young
ones dressed as cows or hermits.
The sacred animal helps
departed souls cross the cosmic ocean in their journey into the
after-world. Family members join the cow procession to ensure
smooth passage for their loved ones because the gates of the after-world
are open only on this day.
Gai Jatra sees the streets
of three cities of the Valley filled with musical bands, children
in costumes made to resemble cows, and cows gaily ornamented with
colorful paper fans tied to their horns and garlands of flowers
around their necks. People stand at the crossroads to offer sweets
and drinks to the participants. In Kathmandu, the festival route
passes by the Durbar Sqaure, so this is a good place to observe
this festivals.
Humorous and satirical
affairs are held to cheer the bereaved families. There are street
events and stage shows making fun of government officials and
some people come dressed out like lunatics roaming around the
city to make people laugh. In Nepal’s pre-democracy days,
only on this particular day were newspapers permitted to criticize
the functioning of the government.
In Kathmandu, the bereaved
families proceed along the festival route individually. In Patan,
all the participants first gather at the Durbar Square and then
move out together. However, it is the celebration in Bhaktapur
that is the most interesting. Tall bamboo contraptions, wrapped
in cloth and topped with horns fashioned of straw, are carried
around the city in memory of the dead. Palanquins bearing clay
figures of cows are also paraded around. One prime attraction
during this festival are processions of weirdly made up Ghintang-gishi
dancers gyrating to the rhythm of boisterous music. Gai Jatra
is also celebrated in all other hill towns of Nepal where there
are large Newar communities.
KRISHNA ASHTHAMI
The birth anniversary
of Lord Krishna, the eighth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, is one
of the greatest Hindu festivals for the Hindus of Nepal. Krishna’s
exploits as a child when he subdued fierce demons and performed
miraculous feats specially endear him to his devotees. In his
boyhood, Krishna exploits as a child when he subdued fierce demons
and performed miraculous feats specially endear him to his devotees.
In his boyhood, Krishna killed the evil king Kansa, his maternal
uncle, to liberate the people from his atrocities. During the
18-day war depicted in the great Hindu epic Mahabharat, Krishna
served as the de facto commander and strategist for the righteous
Pandavas.
In Kathmandu Valley, the
focal point of this festival is the Krishna Mandir in Patan Durbar
Square. Men and women from afar gather around the 17th-century
temple and sit in a vigil waiting for the midnight hour –
the hour of Krishna’s birth. Euphoric prayers and incantations
fill the air, and small oil lamps are lit as a mark of devotion.
At midnight, the chanting becomes more frenzied, and people rush
to worship the impressive image of Krishna inside the temple.
TEEJ
A blissful conjugal life,
progress and prosperity for her husband, good fortune for herself,
and purification of her own body and soul: these are what an ideal
Hindu woman is supposed to aspire for. Teej, the lively festival
exclusively for womenfolk, is a spiritual endeavor towards the
realization of their aspirations. For an unmarried woman, compliance
with the age-old tradition ensures a good, loving and caring husband.
The festival combines
both sumptuous feasts and tormenting fasts. On the first day of
the three-day celebration, groups of women, both married and unmarried,
congregate at one place in their finest attires. Amidst laughter,
songs and music, the grand feasts begin. The merry making goes
on till midnight, from which time onwards the women undergo a
24-hour fast.
The next day sees these
women, in their crimson saris, singing and dancing on the streets
leading to Shiva shrines. The main activities revolve around the
Pashupatinath temple in Kathmandu. On this special day, the temple
remains closed for all males, except the Brahmin priests. Female
devotees, as a mark of total devotion to Shiva the Destroyer,
circumambulate the lingam, the phallic symbol of the Almighty,
making offerings of flowers, sweets and coins, and praying for
their husband's longevity, progress and prosperity.
The third and last day
of the festival is called Rishi Panchami, which is the fifth day
of the waxing moon. On this day, women who have undergone the
agonizing fast pay homage to various deities situated on the banks
of sacred rivers. After a holy bath in the rivers, they use a
piece of Datiwan (a sacred plant with religious and medicinal
significance), to sprinkle holy water all over their body 360
times. The ritual helps then secure exoneration for all sins they
might have committed in the past year.
INDRA JATRA
Indra Jatra is the festival
dedicated to Indra, the god of rain. Only observed in the city
Kathmandu, it is celebrated for eight days. This is the only time
when the Royal Kumari is paraded through the city of Kathmandu.
Installed upon a decorated chariot, the Kumari is pulled through
the street by devotees. The celebration is confined to the traditional
market and residential areas of the old Kathmandu lying within
the periphery of Hanuman Dhoka. Throughout the festival period,
the streets and alleys come alive to the beat of drums and the
jingle of bells on the Lakhe dancers’ legs as they leap
about their dance steps in the darkness.
DASAIN
Dasain glorifies the triumph
of Good over Evil, of Goddess Durga’s slaying of the terrible
demon Mahisasura, who roamed the guise of a ferocious water buffalo.
Ten days of intense sacrificial and joyous worship celebrate fertility
and the victory of good over evil, as represented by the goddess
Durga Bhawani and the various gods who fights the demons.
The first day of Dasain
is called Ghatasthapana, which means establishing of the holy
water vessel, which represents the Goddess Durga. Barley seeds
are planted in it.
The seventh day or Phulpati
is the offering of flowers and leaves, carried by runners from
Gorkha, the ancestral home of the Shah Kings of Nepal, and received
by the King in Kathmandu. On Maha Ashthami, the eighth day, the
fervor of worship and sacrifice to Kali and Durga increases. Animal
sacrifices highlight events of the ninth night to appease Durga,
the Goddess of Victory and Might.
Dasain takes its name
from Vijaya Dashami, the Great Tenth Day of Victory. This is the
day when Lord Rama slew the demon Ravana and when Durga vanquished
the demon Mahisasura. On this day tika is received from elders.
The tika symbolizing victory is a blessing of good fortune.
TIHAR & LAKSHMI
PUJA
Tihar is known as the
festival of lights and is celebrated for five days. On the occasion
of Laxmi Puja houses are illuminated at night. An assortment of
special sweets are prepared and offered to guests. At this time
certain animals are also favored with food and garlands. The first
day of Tihar is dedicated to the crow, the second to the dog,
the third to the cow and the fourth to the ox. On the fifth day,
women who have brothers offer them Tika and special food. In return
the brother gives his sister a token of appreciation usually in
the form of money and renews his commitment to protect her honor.
MAGHE SANKRANTI
Maghe Sankranti is the
first day of the month of Magh. Magh is a sacred month so the
first day is celebrated with a feast at home that particularly
constitutes of yam, butter and brown sugar. Lord Vishnu the Preserver
is worshipped and thanked for the return of the warm season once
more. Through the month of Magh, people busy themselves with religious
activities such as taking an early morning bath in holy rivers,
visiting the shrines of Vishnu and offering flowers, incense and
food, and reading the Bhagavad Gita.
LOSAR
Losar is the Tibetan New
Year. All the Tibetan- speaking populations most impressively
observe this festival in the month of February. They organize
folk songs and dances on this occasion. These dances can be seen
in Khumbu, Helembu and other northern regions of Nepal and also
at Boudhanath in Kathmandu.
MAHA SHIVARATRI
Maha Shivaratri, or the
Great Night of Lord Shiva, is observed in honor of Lord Shiva’s
day of birth. A great fair takes place at the Pashupatinath Temple
as thousands of pilgrims from all parts of Nepal and India congregate
in celebration.
FAGU PURNIMA OR
HOLI
This is a colorful
occasion when people smear each other with colored powder and
splash water balloons onto one another. The Chir pole is erected
at the Kathmandu Durbar Square gaily decorated with colorful flags.
That is the formal announcement to everybody to hide all his or
her good clothes and to join in the revelry. |